Yesterday sure was a good say surfing. I hadn't expected it to be big at all down at Brandon's/Drill Hall.
I had just marched down the beach from the office (Dread Ordead Surf shop) with my longboard and was leashless. I trotted out across the reef and leisurely took a paddle into the line up. Nothign special the odd set of maybe waist high. Nothing that is going to have me swimming after a board. On the strike of eleven am the set wave jumped from waist high to a few feet over head, with plenty of wall and space for manouvre's. What had not been forecast turned into one of the best surf session's this swell had provided.
As with all magic surf stories there is always an anti-climax. My anti-climax comes the following day 0500 in the morning and I am up and ready on the beach wait for the sun to come up to find the ocean completely flat.
Today is a day to go searching there must be swell out there somewhere. Jesse is back so sessions away! South Point here we come.