This week just past folks has been one that I didn’t see coming. It started with the north swell to end all north swell’s. It was good but not epic, really big and some what knarly but never organized enough to warrant the eager anticipation of its arrival. The surprise came in the last hand of the fading north swell when immediately the south turned on and turned on big. The direction had to be perfect to have so many breaks light up. Soup Bowl had wind but performed and Freight’s Bay was the best it has been in ten years. Freight’s had waves that were large and clean and lining up perfectly. The last time that happened it was in the wake of a hurricane so size was all it had. The swell along the south lasted all weekending around Thursday. It looks as though there will nothing of character to surf until Thursday this coming week. In the time between now and then, having been island wide in search of something to surf, I suggest rest. The conditions are transitional and unorganized with bits and pieces of north, north east swell bouncing around and causing nothing of magnitude.
Regarding surf stories from the last swell I have a funny one from the first day of the swell. My brother and team member Kane Garrett, Mark “The Shark” Reeves and myself had all, the night before, planned to get up early and hit the first day of the swell. The night before we were all fairly excited and talking stories of other swell’s past. One such story was that of how pathetic I was at getting up on time for early pick up’s in Mark’s car “White Lightening”. Usually this was caused by a party factor the night before. I quickly came back with Mark’s recent tardiness to be ready. This turned out to be a mistake. The following morning I was just getting up to be at the office to meet everyone. With good time on my side and walking out the door the phone rings. It’s 0430 who the hell could this be?
Mark “The Shark” on the phone proclaiming that it is 0510 and that I am late. It was infact now 0445 still ample time to make it to the office. To my added dissatisfaction when I arrive at the office Mark is nowhere in site. Any way, scene set, driving up the west coast now we can see that there is swell and all we have to do is decide upon where we are going to surf. First stop Batt’s Rock and its too stormy. Further up the coast still too stormy. A quick look at Mullins and it is fantastic the decision as to stop and surf or to go further still was up in the air. Time was running out since we all had to be at work 0900. Our decision was cemented by a tourist surfer who was a little out of his depth and who took the best wipe out I have seen in ages. Our guy was in no mans land to begin with trying to catch the peak where there was only close out and dumping beach break and wash. Our man at least had the guts to commit to the wave, however, from there on in it all went hideously wrong. Our guy got a take off and went to pop up. Some how the speed was too much or the angle too steep and our guy hesitated taking a free fall of about 6”-8” before landing face first, while still holding the board. The board then flew straight back up in the air before the full force of the folding lip smashed down on top of our guy. All of us, in the car, were so impressed that we had to get out there and get some of our own. Our tourist man got a full ten points for the best wipe out we have seen in a while. Thanks to our guy we got a great surf that morning and every day after that.
We are looking forward to some lazy days at Dread or Dead surf shop Barbados awaiting the next swell.