Good morning folks!
It's been a while since I have had anything to write to you all but after a very good holiday season and having met a few guys that "follow the blog" I feel I owe you guys some better words. Chris, Drew and Ryan, the swell is finally here. Check out the Caribbean pics on www.surfline.com there is a good shot of sam and Stanley, although you cant se his face. Sunday was a super fun day. I didnt make it as far as Tropicana I had to pull some workbut come the afternoon I made a quick warm up dip at Brandons on the south coast. Now that will tell you that there was waves everywhere you just had to choose where you wanted to go. Brandons was pretty sweet, not getting messed up by the north swell but actually getting hollow both left and right. An hour of that and I could feel that I was missing out on waves up west. In the van and off to Sandy Lane. It was looking pretty pooh on the way up but I figured I dont want to hear it from some nerd that it was overhead and barrelling when it was really waist high and mushy. The night before I was standing in the middle of paynes bay and it was huge. The shore break was a couple feet over head and I honestly didnt think that it would stick around another day. On the beach by Sandy Lane hotel and the shore break was huge but nothing really too fantastic. Paddle out and the first set I saw dropped very low and left everyone in the top confused. I figured take it longboards away! This set waves was perhaps a little over head and had wall forever. Two big solid cutbacks later I was hanging five towards the beach watching for the shore break. I had to do it, looked at the beach and put the hand up in the air and one behind the back and the whole beach put up there hands too. I felt pretty stoked but had to wonder were they all throwing their hands up because they figured that was sick or were they wondering why that girl wasnt wearing a bra?
The session was awesome and you know how they say every dog has his day? Well Sunday was Russell's day. The old boy was on fire. He was the only guy to catch any set waves worth a damn because I had the break pun lock down with the longboard. Russ was standing in the barrell coming out and going back in. It was really nice to see such an old guy put the kids on the shoulder and without so many words say these waves are mine and you can have what I leave back.
Sandy Lane was littered with surfers and all the usual kooks were out there. We did miss Sammy but then again not really since he is just a bit of an irritation. I must give some props to a guy I dont know, affraid to say it but he is a bodyboarder. This guy was rippin up some drop knee action and I mean rippin. I really thought that sport was just for kids but this dude made it look good.
To all you guys that didnt really get the surf you expected over Christmas its ok we got it all for yah and its still here. Now, I am going surfing!