About two weeks ago I had the first surf scar for the year.
I managed to cut my foot really deep right in the heel pad. You folks will laugh when you here how I did it. I had taken a young lady surfer for some larger waves over to the west coast knowing that Maycox wound have a little something. That little something was a lot more than I had hoped for and was making for a really nice surf session for the girl. Maycox is a lovely wave as long as it has some size but in the shoulder to waist high range it is more than manageable for anyone just starting out who wants to step it up a gear. Anyway, I was having a good day out on the longboard just cruising and getting some insanely long nose riding action and inbetween giving the young lady a hand catching some nice waves. I saw the girl about to take a wave a little late and catch it on the head. I jumped off my board and went to grab her leash to pull her out of a large nose dive and as I kicked to reach her BANG! I knew something were not right with my foot and I had that feeling without looking that it was time for stitches. I had pushed my board away a little too hard and it had come back at me so that when I kicked to grab the girl I had thumoed the tip of my centre fin. I paddled off with my foot singing to me not wanting to look since I wanted to suf a little more I paddled passed two guys in the line up. The guys were like "whoa! What have you done to your foot Jay?"
I had to look and there was blood everywhere. My foot was kinda purple from the impact and the split was about an inch to inch and a half long and it looked mega deep. That was it for me get me to a gas station where I can clean this and think about finding a doctor. Now, heres where I have the luck of the Irish. The young lady with me is a doctor and I had a good pointy knife in the car. I pullinto the first gas station I can find and get prepared for some cleaning and digging. This hole in my foot is thumpin' now and so against the doctors orders I walk into the station and order 2 hotdogs, 1 meat roll and a huge snickers.
I said to the doc now you may begin. There was no way she was gonna go diggin' at me foot with a big knife if I didn't have chocolate.
Foot clean and belly full, do I need stitches?
Now I have to surf every day or at least get wet because its my job. Stitches put you back in the water immediately.
So doc whats the prognosis?
I was told you get it stitched up because your foot is always moving and with me being wet all the time its just not worth it. keep it clean and let it heal on its own. Another doc told me the same thing and so for the past 2 weeks I have been limping around like a pregnant woman. I cant surf it hurts to much so you all must think I am a big sissy but let me tell you this thing was double deep you could see all the meat.
I think I am going to live and so far this year have avaoided going to the doctor and I haven't broken my nose yet. This could be a good year I just have to nake sure that I look both ways when I cross the street and look out for buses.