Good morning Thursday!
Just something to start the day. Thank you magicseaweed.com for your lovely wave prediction for Soup Bowl in Barbados. As per usual you were wrong and made for a disappointing drive from south to east. Now, to be fair, I hadn’t hoped for much but you guys and your reports always stir that little bit of hope. You know the hope for waves you got when you were a kid and so you get up early and you’re on the best part of the day before anyone else. Guys, this feeling is a special one. You guys are abusing it to the full and soon nobody is gonna be able to feel it anymore. That’s moaning over.
Right now I would just like to mention David, a friend of my lady’s, who is surfing with me all week. One of the few English men who are honest about their surfing. He’s been surfing for two years on and off due to work. Now, not only is David better than he gives himself credit for he actually is pretty good I believe for the amount of water time he gets.
He was self taught but not as a gromit but while in his twenties. David has remained true to himself in what he wants out of surfing, and that’s the same to be better and get better waves. He, in my eyes, goes beyond other surfers by being honest to himself about his ability and this reflects in his board selection. David seems to be aware that he is not going to be on the cover of surfer magazine, at least not for his shortboarding, and so David uses a longboard. This does not take away any of his “coolness” but, to me, makes him “more cool”. Longboarding is a whole separate sport to shortboarding.
David could be the best surfer in the world. Why? He always has the biggest smile, which he got from catching the most waves, and he caught the most waves by riding the correct board for his size and ability. My advice is to be honest to yourself and get rid of that board that is two to six inches too short for you find one that suits your style and ability and start catching some of those waves and start improving. Not catching waves is no fun and failure to improve is frustrating.
Surfing is a unique sport where surfers of all different levels came perform in the same environment and have fun. And fun my friends is what it is all about. As always folks I will see you all in the line up.
Surf well.
Jay Garrett